Chassagne-Montrachet, Domaine Philippe Colin, 2019

Philippe Colin took over his father's domaine in Chassagne-Montrachet and swiftly proved himself one of the appellation's sharper operators, favouring precision and tension over the broader, butterier style some of his neighbours still chase. This 2019 comes from a vintage that gave generous fruit without sacrificing acidity, which suits his hands-off, barely-oaked approach down to the ground.

Expect white Burgundy of real clarity: orchard fruit, a savoury, flinty edge, and that chalky Chassagne minerality running right through the middle. It drinks well now with an hour in the glass, but there's no rush. Give it until 2034 and you'll be rewarded for the wait.