Maison Bollinger, La Grande Année Brut, 2014

"The 2014 La Grande Année is stunning. In fact, it is one of the best recent editions I can remember tasting. What comes through most is the wine’s sizzling energy and tension, qualities that aren’t often associated with Bollinger, where the Champagnes tend to show more breadth and volume. In 2014, readers will find a Grande Année built on linear intensity and drive. The 2014 is a blend taken from 19 villages, 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay instead of the more typical 70/30 mix. For the second time in two decades (the first was 2007), Verzenay takes the lead in the Pinots over Aÿ, more or less an inverse from the norm. Verzenay, a north-facing village in the Montagne de Reims that saw less rain than Aÿ and most of the Vallée de la Marne, yields Pinots of energy more than volume. That, married with Chardonnays mostly from the Côtes des Blancs (predominantly Chouilly, Vertus, Oiry and Cramant), results in a truly magical Grande Année that will delight Champagne fans for several decades. I can’t recommend the 2014 highly enough. It’s a total knock-out. Disgorged: April, 2021. Dosage: 8 grams per liter. Drink 2022-2044."

"Bright crème pâtissière nose with notes of Cox's orange pippin apple and lots of development. Really quite arresting. Much drier on the palate than the nose suggests, with a certain steeliness. Bone-dry finish but lots of substance on the mid palate. More recognisably Bollinger on the palate than the surprisingly rich, flirtatious nose, presumably informed by the vintage. Low-key mousse. This is clearly a long-distance runner."

"Revealing its refined pedigree in spades, Bollinger’s Grand Année 2014 is a 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay, an expressly higher percentage of Chardonnay than usual to capture the excellent quality found in the 2014 harvest. Traditionally 100% fermented in small oak barrels, the wine remained in contact with the lees until bottling in May the following year, aged on fine lees until it was manually riddled and disgorged February 2023 with a seven gram per liter dosage. Burnished yellow gold with pinpoint columns of bubbles emerging, it first unfurls with an airy swirl of minerality that overlays richer aromas of warm apple tarte, lemon curd, butter sablé cookies, toast and nuts. Full-bodied, beautifully balanced and filled with verve, the palate is as lithe and winsome as it is textural and intense, with an electric shimmer of acidity bringing freshness and bright salinity to a long, long finish."