Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, Les Loups, Domaine des Lambrays, 2021

It’s all change again at the domaine, with Jacques Devauges crossing the road from Clos de Tart to take the helm, after Boris Champy’s brief tenure, following Thierry Brouin’s 38 years as winemaker. Does billionaire owner Bernard Arnault have another acquisition in the region pending? The rumour mill was certainly hard at work at time of writing… Meanwhile in the cellar, Jacques reminded us that 2018 was the warmest year on record with early flowering at the end of May and harvest completed at the domaine by 3rd September, thus avoiding the problems of stuck fermentation that especially affected those who picked much later. A great set of reds from the domaine, the Clos 2018 is definitely a legend.
2021 is Jacques’s 3rd vintage in charge at this resurgent domaine and he has crafted some spectacular wines, despite the challenges presented by mother nature throughout the year. Frost, of course, played a huge role in shaping this vintage, reducing yields of the whites by 75% and the reds by 50%. The wonderful light in September brought the small number of bunches to an excellent level of phenolic ripeness and Jacques was delighted with the quality of fruit that he harvested towards the end of September, if not the volume!
In barrel the wines have evolved very positively, putting on weight yet maintaining real finesse and displaying a gorgeous purity of tannins. This is a vintage of balance, and vibrancy that should age with much grace and charm. The Clos, reflecting the 10 different parcels that have gone into it, is complex and nuanced, whilst the 1er Cru Les Loups is arguably the best version of itself ever made at the domaine.
91-93 Points, Neal Martin
"As well as some fruit from the young vines (young but still 20 years old!) of the Clos itself, this has fruit from La Riotte, Clos Sorbet and the curiously named Le Village. Only in Burgundy could a ‘Village’ be a 1er Cru! Jacques kept 50% of the stems here and they add a lovely freshness and focus to the wine, framing the bright red fruits and drawing out the finish beautifully."